Description
How To Build Your First Trad Rack
A trad rack is a collective term for the types of equipment climbers need to keep themselves safe during traditional or ‘trad’ climbing. Building your first starter rack of gear is a daunting but exciting experience. It is also one that takes time, consideration and a bit of practical understanding and advice. No doubt you just want to get out onto the rock and start climbing, but when it concerns your safety, it’s always worth taking the time to choose the correct basic equipment.
That’s why we have put together this customisable product bundle with various bespoke options covering all the types of equipment available to you to build your rack. Please note however, that this is not advice on the correct and safe usage. If you’re a beginner, or you’re unsure, get advice from a qualified climbing instructor or seek guidance from a more experienced climbing friend or climbing club.
A Belay device and HMS Screwgate Karabiner – Choose a belay device with a guide mode; these have an additional, fixed metal loop which means it can be used in the system rather than connected to the belayer. These are good on multi pitch routes, especially with direct belays or when climbing with two seconders. But a standard device is also fine. As always with trad, self-locking and single rope devices are not a good choice.
Locking Karabiners – Ideally one of these will be a large HMS karabiner as this style is capable of holding multiple knots. Carry a few of these on multi-pitch routes and any climb where there is an abseil descent or if there is any other reason you may need to be attached to the anchor after completing the route.
A Nut Key – This is essential for getting tricky bits of protection out of the rock. Having a small dedicated karabiner for your nut key is a must, as you’ll want to clip it to, and remove it from your harness. Try to ensure that all the karabiners on your harness are fully climbing rated, that means there’s no chance of using a small accessory karabiner by accident.
Prusik Loops – On multi pitch routes and certain single pitch routes, especially sea cliffs or those with abseil approaches/descents, you’ll also want to carry a couple of prussik loops. The benefit of having these is that if you were to accidently let go of the brake rope, then the prussik loop bites shut and should stop the rope playing through your belay. The thickness of the cord should be about 3mm less than the diameter of the climbing rope being used. A locking karabiner is required to secure these.
Nuts – These are the most common and widely used pieces of protection. This style of protection is referred to as ‘passive’ as it has no moving parts. Typically carry a set sized 1 to 10, but for longer routes, consider taking two of these sets, or at least two sets of the key sizes, which generally range from about 4 to 7.
Cams – Depending on the rock type cams are a vital addition. They can be expensive and are comparatively heavy, but by starting small, with sizes 1 to 3 you set yourself up for many routes. Due to their moving parts, cams are considered to be a form of ‘active’ protection.
Hexes –Despite the fact they have no moving parts, their shape means that they can, if used wisely, act as both passive and active protection. They can be wedged in, like a nut, or when weighted, ‘roll’ into position, not dissimilar to a cam. Hexes on doubled slings are especially good because it can cut down the number of quickdraws needed. Read and study the route description so you can tailor your rack to the route. You will over time develop a preference for different forms of protection in different areas.
Slings – A good range of lengths and thicknesses are always useful, not only for helping to build belays and anchors but also for threads, spikes and runners. Slings provide excellent, multi-directional protection. Depending on the length of the route, two 60cm slings, two 120cm slings and maybe one 240cm sling gives you a good range of options – all on wire gates preferably to save weight.
Quickdraws/Extenders – There are a number of different styles, all with different lengths and gate openings, but generally medium to long quickdraws with wire gates are good because keeping weight to a minimum is always advisable for trad. The number of quickdraws you will need depends entirely on the length of the route and the amount of protection you choose to place. So as always, study the route guide beforehand to avoid any unwanted surprises.
